Skin savvy

From dry skin and eczema to acne and rosacea, Rude Health explores some natural ways to tackle common skin problems

Choosing skincare can feel overwhelming, particularly if you have sensitive skin. With so many cleansers, serums and moisturisers on the market, it’s not always easy to know where to start.

Niamh Larkin, beauty specialist at Evergreen Health Foods in Mainguard St, Galway, says that she is regularly asked for advice on skin issues such as rosacea, eczema, psoriasis, pigmentation and acne. “Skin sensitivity can be frustrating,” she says. “The customer is usually fed up of spending money on products they ultimately have a reaction to.”

“When you have problem skin, the advice given online can be overwhelming and often conflicting,” says Dr Joanne Reilly, founder and CEO, Kinvara Skincare. She recommends starting with products that are formulated to be as free from irritants as possible. Dr Reilly says: “An excellent starting place is with waterless products such as oils, balms and powders as they have less chemicals in them. Chemicals are okay at the correct percentages; remember our bodies are basically bags of chemicals! But for problem skin, I think you have to start with a plan and products that will nourish your skin with mega-rich oils, vitamins and antioxidants, and they are most concentrated in waterless products. Read a label and look for words you recognise as high up in the list as possible. Be patient and give your new products a chance to work; remember it took time for these issues to arise in the first place.”

Look for simple formulations
Helen Rouse, skincare educator with Trilogy and Weleda, Ireland, recommends starting small when you’re choosing products. She says: “Look for simple formulations with ingredients such as plant oils, ceramides, glycerine or aloe vera. For dry skin, moisturising and barrier-supporting ingredients are particularly important, while acne-prone skin may benefit from lightweight, non-comedogenic formulations and ingredients such as niacinamide.

Those with eczema, psoriasis or rosacea should be especially cautious with potential irritants, including strong fragrances, alcohol and harsh exfoliating acids. Even natural ingredients can cause irritation, so natural doesn’t automatically mean suitable for sensitive skin.”

“It’s usually foam-producing products that will contain irritating ingredients such as Sodium Lauryl Sulfate,” says Niamh. “Look for skincare that is tailored specifically to the skin condition in question, keeping an eye out for beneficial ingredients such as jojoba oil, shea butter and aloe vera.” It’s not just choosing gentle products though – be gentle in how you use them. “Scrubbing the skin with abrasive exfoliants in an attempt to eliminate acne will strip your skin and cause it to produce even more oil than before, resulting in inflamed, angry and extra oily skin,” says Niamh. “Instead, use an oil-based cleanser to gently remove dirt, calm irritated skin and regulate the skin’s natural production of oil.”

“The best approach is to keep things simple,” says Helen. “Use a gentle cleanser, a hydrating moisturiser and daily SPF, introducing new products one at a time. Patch testing can also help identify potential reactions. If skin is persistently inflamed or problematic, stop what you are using and seek advice from a healthcare professional or dermatologist.”

Remember: healthy skin starts from within
Looking after your skin isn’t just about what you put on it. Nutrition and lifestyle also have an important role to play. Mary Kelly, beauty advisor for Here’s Health Store and Café in Cork, says she often encourages customers to think beyond topical skincare. “The most common skin concerns I discuss with customers are dry and sensitive skin,” she says. “And I see a lot of eczema and acne cases too. Most customers are looking for advice on topical creams and external management, and although this is very important, I like to dig a bit deeper and also focus on addressing skin concerns from within, as this is often where the main issues stem from.”

Mary adds: “I highly recommend taking targeted probiotics as gut health is directly linked to skin health, and a balanced microbiome helps reduce inflammation that can trigger breakouts, eczema, dry skin and rosacea. Adding fermented foods such as sauerkraut, kimchi and kefir is brilliant for improving your gut microbiome and, in turn, regulating any skin issues. The core skin vitamins and minerals – zinc, vitamin C and selenium – are never left out of any conversation where skin is an issue. Zinc reduces sebum and fights bacteria, vitamin C supports collagen formation and skin barrier repair and selenium is a powerful antioxidant that calms inflammation and protects skin tissue.”

Consider supplementation
Another supplement worth adding to your skincare arsenal is magnesium. “Magnesium may be best known for supporting muscles and relaxation, but it also has an important role to play in healthy skin,” says Orla McLaughlin, nutritional practitioner with Oriel Magnesium. “There is growing interest in magnesium’s role in supporting skin hydration, barrier integrity and a balanced inflammatory response. This makes adequate magnesium intake particularly relevant for skin that is dry, sensitive or prone to irritation.

Research has also identified associations between magnesium status and inflammatory skin conditions such as eczema and psoriasis, although more research is needed to understand how supplementation may influence these conditions.” Orla recommends eating plenty of dark, green, leafy vegetables; raw nuts and seeds, beans, lentils and wholegrains as these are “excellent sources of magnesium”. Cacao is another good source. “A varied and nutrient-rich diet provides the foundation for healthy skin from the inside out,” she adds.

Lastly, don’t forget the importance of drinking plenty of water. As Mary Kelly says: “Hydration is the absolute foundation of skin health! Invest in your skin … it’s yours for a lifetime.”